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Tiksey Monastery, Ladakh
In Durbuk in Changthang region, amidst graceful mud houses of beautiful traditional architecture, stands a recently built ghastly green coloured box like concrete tourist guest-house. It must have cost twice as much as a local house built in local style with locally available material. The owner failed to realise that it is a poor copy of cheap, tasteless buildings used by poor people in the countries where the tourists come from. It is most painful to those who are sensitive to Ladakh's unique culture and its fragile ecosystems.

Another aspect is the influence of tourists on the local population. Different people have different perceptions. Some are concerned about the visible negative impacts while those in trade and commerce are seduced by the prospects of immediate profits. But there are two totally contradictory effects, one of consolidating and strengthening Ladakhi culture and the other of proliferation of consumption and exploitation syndrome. Through it may appear strange to some, I have always believed that tourism has had a most unusual impact in Ladakh. During the Seventies and Eighties it had an intangible but positive and strengthening effect on Ladakh's culture and its spirit . It was the time when development agencies and military officials from outside had almost overwhelmed us with the idea that Ladakhis are uncultured and backward people and should be 'civilised and developed' to be like the 'proper humans'.

Ladakhis were made to feel inferior to their very core. Many so-called educated Ladakhis would spurn their mother tongue and encourage their children to speak in Hindi or Urdu at home. That was the time when the Government of the newly independent India, with its good intentions but with a strong colonial hangover, wanted to see all parts of India 'developed', which actually meant that they should become copies of their former masters in the West. Anything that was different from this stereotype was considered inferior and primitive instead of being different and unique. Once a people's self-confidence and pride is destroyed, then an external enemy (like China in Tibet) is not needed to destroy the cultural heritage like language, dress and social values. The people who feel inferior work hard to destroy their culture themselves.


It was amidst such feelings of inferiority and despondency that Ladakh was opened to tourism in 1974. It was actually Ladakh's opening to international exposure and started the process of understanding of the global situation beyond the boundaries of India. Two aspects about tourism of that time proved fortunate for Ladakh. Firstly, Ladakh being a difficult and inaccessible place, only those with a genuine and deep interest in Ladakh, its people, culture and religion visited it. There is a Tibetan proverb that says, "If a valley is reached by high passes, only the best of friends and the worst of enemies are its visitors."

The second factor was the timing of Ladakh's opening. In the Seventies, the West was re-evaluating the models and processes of growth and development. It felt disillusioned with the price for its model of growth and development. Environmental spectres, like poisoned waters, polluted air, acid rain, birth defects and species extinction, were closing in on them. When sensitive people from this era came to Ladakh, they were overwhelmed by its pristine, natural and pollution free purity, and the Ladakhi people's sustainable lifestyle.

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